UK Walking Trip May '09 EB: May 2009

We left Newquay with no regrets as it is an odd little town - we did learn from our innkeeper (and some of the guests) that Newquay is the surfing capital of the UK. It hosts the biggest championship competitions and draws surfers from all over the world.
We found this a little hard to believe as we had seen the waves and they didn't seem very impressive. But of course, we come from the land of Mavericks, so we are not easily impressed, wave-wise.

The train to London was, as expected, a pleasant and relaxing trip. On two hillsides (near Stonehenge?) we saw giant white horses carved into the chalk. A trainmate told us that they were supposedly done around the same time as Stonehenge and are now maintained by the National Trust as items of historic importance. I'll say. A beautiful site to see them set in the green, green, hillsides.
The weather improved as we travelled through the countryside towards London, and by the time we arrived at Paddington station, it was fairly clear.

We were booked into the Holiday Inn Forum, Kensington, as part of our excellent British Airways flight package (cheap flights and two nights free at a hotel in London). Chain hotels in the UK/Europe are, in general, nothing like chain hotels in the States. This Holiday Inn was almost luxurious (almost) and had a big beautiful lobby with an extremely helpful concierge and a bustling, international clientele.

Our room (on the 17th floor) had great views to the east - looking at The London Eye and Big Ben. Not too shabby. Included was a continental breakfast that went way beyond the normal cold cereal and juice. On the 25th floor, the hotel had a kitchen with microwave for guests. Each room had a fridge. Around the corner was a Waitrose (big grocery store) and the Gloucester Road tube stop was two blocks away. The neighborhood was safe and very walkable. I would definitely stay there again.

We walked a bit in the neighborhood, stopped at Waitrose and bought a roasted chicken and a good bottle of wine - from Sonoma, on sale! - and had a terrific little dinner in our room looking out at the London night.

Next day, we bought a one-day tube ticket and set out.

This is not news to anyone who travels, but the public transportation systems abroad are sooooo much better than ours (with the exception of the subways in NYC and the Metro in DC.) They are clean, fast, efficient. Everyone rides - business people in suits to tourists in sneakers. Lots of tourists along with moms with babies in carriages (buggies, prams.) The trains run often and everything is color-coded so even a directionally challenged person like myself can figure it out.
Brilliant.

Our first stop was The Cabinet War Rooms - actual rooms below ground that Churchill and his staff used to run WWII.
On the way there, though - another serendipity site. Hundreds of uniformed Queen's Guards (the red coats and the crazy tall black fur hats) were marching from Buckingham Palace over to the Horseguards parade grounds (right next to Whitehall and The Cabinet War Rooms). The street was barricaded but a friendly Bobby told us that we would still be able to see plenty behind the barriers just down the street - which we did. Regiment after regiment marched by - some rode by on horses - there were even band units and a bagpipe regiment. Quite a spectacle, to say the least. And why all the whoopla? They were practicing for the Queen's birthday celebration, to be held at the end on this month. It's good to be the Queen.

The War Rooms were (again, for me; first time for Rick) at the same time creepy and awesome. Giant maps covering complete walls with pins in them to show warships and troops movements. Typists' room. Churchills' private quarters. Rooms for phones. Rooms for sleeping. Very good audio commentary explaining everything. Enjoyed it very much and would recommend it as a London "must see".

Then, a nice stroll over the Westminster Bridge, beside Big Ben, to the London Eye. We were there at a perfect time - no lines. no waiting. Another London "must see/do" - an engineering feat, to be sure. When we first saw the Eye, it was on its side over the Thames - it had not been raised yet. We were in London in 1999, walking the Thames Path, and the Eye was just being finished in prep for The Millennium. Now it is one of the iconic London sites and well worth the admission price (17 pounds.) Views are 360 degrees from a height of about 450 feet. The cars move so slowly so movement is almost imperceptible. You can move around comfortably inside and everyone has an opportunity, at some point, to stand wherever they want as the ride lasts 30 minutes.
Brilliant.

Our afternoon was spent at The Imperial War Museum on the south bank. It is housed in the impressive and aptly named former Bedlam Hospital. Similar in feel to our own new Air and Space Museum outside of DC. Not as big, of course, but still with all kinds of tanks and bombs and planes and submarines. Also, very good exhibits of all UK wars with special "experiences" of the Blitz and the Trenches. Good for war buffs, but towards the end I was getting a little tired and too saddened by all the death. Passed on the special Holocaust exhibit - that would just have been too much.

On the way back to our hotel, we got off one tube stop early and walked back through the neighborhoods. So fun to be walking around in a world class city. People coming home from work; a good look at mews and at squares. Many squares have their own gated garden/park in the center and we could hear kids playing inside. Lovely homes - Kensington is a nice district.
Another stop at our friendly Waitrose, and supplies for dinner in the room again. Easy and cheap.

Our flight the next day was at a very civilized time, so no rushing around. Taxi to Paddington, Heathrow Express to the airport, then a very long, but smooth and comfortable flight back home. (Love the new personal entertainment thingies at each seat.)

Nightmare shuttle ride (welcome back to the States) from SFO, then a dreamy night's sleep in the best bed in the world.
There's no place like home.