Friday, May 8, 2009

Westward Ho!

As I was saying, a relaxing bus ride to Westward Ho! (except for my suitcase flying out of the luggage rack as we went around a corner and for us sitting, unknowingly, in the wheelchair/baby stroller seats and a mom w/ a baby stroller boarding and having to stand until we figured out what was what.)
Arrived at Westward Ho! in the rain and walked a short walk up to our excellent B+B of the night - The Culloden House. Greeted by Graham Gent who showed us to our big, beautiful room overlooking the town and the ocean and the long (5 miles?) beach with a pebble ridge above the beach.
Walked around town in the rain (happy and dry in our GorTex) scouting out possible dinner-for Thursday-night/packed-lunches-for-Friday venues (accommodations usually provide packed lunches but not this one.)
Back to the room to re-group then out again (rain stopped) to Potwallopers for dinner.
Potwallopers were local guys in Victorian days who constantly restored the pebble ridge above the beach when it eroded so that the land on the other side of the ridge wouldn't flood.
OR
Potwallopers were men in the 1600s who could prove they had a separate indoor fire to cook a pot over (instead of an outside fire) thereby gaining for themselves the right to cast a vote in elections (first property owner voter rights?)
In any case, the chef used to cook at Grayeagles in Scotland and the Savoy in London so he's no slouch.
He follows the Alice Waters school of thought for cooking (though he doesn't know it, or rather, his wife didn't know AW - maybe he does). The point is, everything fresh, fresh, fresh and local as possible and organic.
Best meal in ages - mixed salad of perfection greens, beets, cherry tomatoes and a freshly caught sea bass on a mound of chive mashed potatoes w/ steamed broc and cauli on the side. Choc brownie w/ choc sauce and clotted cream for dessert. Giant glass of good Australian wine (OK with me that the wine wasn't local as I've had English wine and it is bad.)
Waddled back up the hill to our B+B and slept soundly and comfortably.

Friday Morning, May 8
Sunny and bright.
Torridge Porridge (Torridge is the name of the valley nearby - porridge is oatmeal - Torridge Porridge is the house specialty and delish - nuts and seeds and raisins and currants and creamy. Ate it all up.) Strong coffee.
As we ate, gale winds brought a squall in - dramatic and awesome to watch but somewhat anxiety-making as we were heading out soon.
By breakfasts' end, sunny and bright (but still gale winds.)

Off we walked, heading into the wind and out of Westward Ho!
Good couple of miles, then muscle pains in R's legs (old problem, thought it was fixed w/PT, guess it wasn't so Plan B.)
We had no Plan B.
Saw a path off inland, took it and ended up in Abbotsham (pop. 434). Ate lunch in the church vestibule and found a bus stop. Waited around for an hour and took a bus to Clovelly, our stay for tonight.

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